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gisette
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Rather than continue clogging up Peat's carrot grow log, decided to move this conversation.

This topic got very long with discussions... Jump to pictures, or a how-to summary.

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gisette
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LOL! Didn't think you had that much light space, to keep 'em! (Regarding the carrots.)

Lately I've been plotting a seed-starting light rig, for starting my spring / summer outdoor gardens. I wonder how good it'll be for greens...

Peat
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Are you making your own or buying one of the bespoke AG starter trays?

I think anything you start in an AG will grow like crazy, it's the best thing you can do for a seed - a great beginning in life.

gisette
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Making my own, ish. A 48" 2-bulb T8 flourescent fixture, hung from a sturdy plastic utility shelf. Possibly keep it in the garage for the first month or so - the shelves are already in the garage, and the first round of seedlings are mostly cool weather plants (pansies and snapdragons). The few warmer, bigger plants for the kozy coats experiment, I could start as AG outriders. The later heat-loving crop plants (tomato, pepper, eggplant) I might start directly in my pro100 with just the 7 holes, after giving my latest greens garden a couple months. Cucurbits need no special treatment - they're super-easy to germinate. And move the seed starting lights indoors by the time the warm-weather seedlings need 'em - the cool weather plants can go outside by then. (Well, maybe not the snaps, but it won't do them any harm to be warmer.) Planning out the seedling starting is strangely complex...

Yeah, the AG's definitely give seeds a great kick-start. But they can't stay in there long, if I plan to grow the plants out in soil. And for cucurbit starting, it's a waste of prime AG real estate. And for this long parade of seed-starting - there's a different batch of seeds every 2 weeks or so, spread over months. Not really willing to use a whole AG for that, when a $25 or so wonky light rig (or none...) will do. Most of these seedlings I managed last year without hardware.

Peat
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Sounds as though you have it all wrapped up. Embarrassing, had to look up cucurbits as I have never heard of them. My trusty Thompson & Morgan site has little in the way of these seeds, only a hybrid pumpkin.

Did you get a particular colour temperature for your T8, i.e. for vegetative it's 5000 degrees Kelvin?

gisette
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Ah. Just felt kinda dumb calling 'em "cukes&zukes" all the time. Unfortunately, "squash" seems to exclude "cuke". You know what I mean, though, right? "Squash-cuke-melon family".

Haven't actually bought this stuff yet. Assorted websites say assorted things... People who do it all the time seem to buy "cool white" by the 10-pack. I think that's more like 4200K. But others suggested add a full spectrum daylight t8 bulb, which is 6500K? Maybe one of each to hedge my bets?

Edit: Hm. Another page seems to suggest "daylight" = 5000K.

I'm still not very up on all this... they make flourescents weirdly complicated.

Peat
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I know what you mean, I've now taught myself all about growing cucurbits.

4000K & 4200K for normal vegetative growth, 5000K for enhanced vegetative growth & 6500K to mimic natural daylight (full spectrum) - good for all stages.

Hmm, won't do any harm if you use both types, but, if you are purely growing veg. then probably stick to 4200K. It's sorta more suited to this stage and not a 'jack of all trades' 6500K

gisette
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Sounds like the most all-purpose setup would then be one of each, 4200K and either-daylight (5000K or 6500K, whichever they have cheapest...)

6500K would give me the option to try using it for cucurbits some other time, though... But two t8 bulbs probably isn't enough light for a cucumber to bear fruit, do you think?

But I decided to stop dreaming up expensive fruiting rigs, and instead stick to the possibly much-cheaper task at hand - start strong seedlings.

Peat
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Your two T8's will output more than my two Classic 25 watt AG ones, so, I reckon you will be OK.

If I can get my cucumber to fruit in the AG, then your cuke should be fine. Unless you are growing it really high, unlike mine, when the bottom leaves may be a little light starved? I've noticed my bottom leaves are dying off now - no light down there, they are in the shade from all the newer top growth which is flourishing.

 

gisette
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FWIW, seeds I managed last year without a seed-starting light rig :  pansies, petunias, spinach, dill, basil, cucumbers, zucchini. The earlier seedlings (pansies, petunias, and snapdragons) spent some time nestled between AG minis for overflow light. But mostly I started these by my west-facing slider, where it's 55-65 degrees in midwinter. (Only pansies started in midwinter...)

The cukes and zukes were only inside to sprout at a warmer temperature - they didn't stay inside more than a week or two. It's just that the same week or two would have taken 3-4 weeks outside.

Seeds that didn't work or I wouldn't even attempt without better lights:  snapdragon (failed last year - they get very leggy without enough light!), tomato, pepper, eggplant.

gisette
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(Cross-posted.) Huh, I didn't realize the AG Classic / Pro100 bulbs were 25 watt. Yeah, the t8's are 32W each, I think?

What I was thinking, if I attempted indoor fruiting cuke, was to arrange the light sort-of vertically. Like maybe on a slant above the plant, with some reflective draping for warmth and light collection. 48" wide bulbs wouldn't do so as much good hung above a plant.