Peat's Guide to Hydroponics in the AeroGarden
Currently being updated - 29th April 2010
I have put together a guide to using hydroponic nutrients in your AeroGarden.
They have been split into a number of parts - currently running at 4 :-
Part 1
Basic guide to pH levels and measuring nutrient strength, along with items you need to buy.
Part 2
The main event. Here you will find out how to mix-up the nutrients to the correct strength; tailored for the AeroGarden. Plant growth stages, handy tables and more.
Part 3
Plant problems and nutrients. How to identify problems by looking at the leaves, and, some information on what the different chemicals do in your nutrients.
Part 4
How to grow using rockwool cubes in you AeroGarden.
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 10:27
Peat
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 10:38
#2
That's fine, I am going to
That's fine, I am going to re-write some of it though - add some more information...
---STOP PRESS --- Exclusive to this site only. 
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 10:57
#3
YAY! Thank you thank you!
Oh,
YAY! Thank you thank you!
Oh, btw - I added a link to this forum topic to the "Aerogarden Lore | Nutrients" page.
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 12:24
#4
I'm glad you put them here,
I'm glad you put them here, Peat, they are almost a bible for me. I have them printed but it's nice having acces to them, especially new, revised ones.
Thanks.
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 12:33
#5
Thanks Bruce.
I'm looking
Thanks Bruce.
I'm looking forward to seeing your new hydro gear, your going to be storming off and growing plants I can only dream about - or used to grow until I got shot of my gear. 
gisette - we need our grow tents now!
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 13:02
#6
I'm not sure my finances can
I'm not sure my finances can withstand all this keeping-up-with-the-Joneses. (In either sense of Jonesing. 
)
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 14:10
#7
The stock market made me do
The stock market made me do it!! I lost about 60% of what I had and Maere has lost about 25% so far. We're not hurting (yet) but I pulled almost all my money out of the market 2 months ago and put it in a modest money market fund making all of 2.2% last I checked. We're making some major energy saving improvements to the house, giving a bigger payback than the market and laid some aside to enjoy, a salve for hard licks lately.
We are very, very fortunate. We retired early almost ten years ago and have no bills except for utilities and taxes. I would dearly hate to be making ends meet today with how the economy has gone south worldwide. My respect goes out to you Ginger for having a teenager to support and having the talent to go it on your own and survive. I'm in awe!
I probably should have gotten a taller tent like Ginger is looking at (I thought you were just looking at the 400w, roll of milar, closet setup, not a tent), mine is 48" tall but after using space for ventilation and lights plus some sort of hydro setup on the bottom, I'll have very little more headspace than the Deluxe gives me unless my hydro guy can pull off something low and spectacular.
Besides, I love new toys! :)
B
Thu, 10/30/2008 - 15:05
#8
Well... we'll see how well I
Well... we'll see how well I make it through the downturn... My standard self-employed "one year's savings" is probably down 35% now. And the home value dropping too, of course, with no change in the mortgage - it's only my equity evaporating. 
I'm in awe that you managed to retire early at the peak of the IT boom. Nice! Me too young... and yeah, raising a kid single-handedly isn't compatible with the savings / retire early agenda. Actually, my generation probably isn't compatible with the retire early agenda...
I do love new toys. Just not so wise to buy them right now.
I look forward to enjoying your new grow cabinet vicariously!
Sun, 11/02/2008 - 17:28
#9
Maybe the market is turning
Maybe the market is turning and things will be looking up, who knows? I hope so for everybody's sake.
Back to liquid nutes - I've noticed the EC of my gardens creeping up after only a week of replacing the mixture. I've been replenishing them with the original mixes, using almost half a gallon between the peppers and tomatoes, they're thirsty! I tested my Bloom mix and it's at 2.3, just like when I started but the tomatoes were at 2.7 - 2.8 today and showing stress on the bottom leaves again so I drained half a liter and added plain 6.3 PH water to bring it back to where it should be. The peppers and herb garden have gone up about 0.2, nothing to worry about yet (I think) but I'll be using plain water to replenish for a while. Any idea what's causing this?
Sun, 11/02/2008 - 17:47
#10
I can answer that one
I can answer that one Bruce, this is what I intended/should have added to my guide...
Generally, when the plant EC goes up it means the plant is transpiring (using) more water than nutrient. The EC level then climbs. Top off with water and not nutrient in this case.
I will be adding something along these lines in time.
Should I top-off my reservoir with plain water or nutrient solution?
In the Summer (or hot grow rooms), plants, in general, will take up more water than nutrients, thus causing the nutrient solution to become more salty. In the Winter time, the opposite will occur. Nutrient uptake will also be determined by the type of crop being grown e.g., tomatoes are heavier feeders than lettuce.
If you notice after a few days that the EC level in the reservoir is high and the water level has decreased then you should top up their reservoir with either plain water or a weak nutrient solution until the optimum EC level is reached. If you have noticed a drop in EC levels then a full strength nutrient solution should be used to top off the reservoir.
Sun, 11/02/2008 - 18:40
#11
Peat, you are a GOD! That
Peat, you are a GOD! That makes perfect sense now that I think about it. Here in the desert Southwest our summer humidity is so low that we use swamp coolers - evaperative cooling and have high indoor humidity. Then in winter we use natural gas central heat that dries all the moisture out of the air. We have a humidifier but it works hard to keep 35% RH most of the time. Looking at my weather station I see outside is 70* F and humidity is 22%. Inside is 74* and 31% RH, thanks to the humidifier working it's li'l heart out. Summers, it's not unusual to see 10% RH outside but 45-60% inside, winter is just the opposite.
Thanks!!!
Wed, 11/05/2008 - 15:11
#12
Peat's guide has been
Peat's guide has been updated.
Changes to Part 2 and Part 3, minor ones to Parts 1 and 4.
I've tried to clarify things more in Part 2, it's more clear now - I think. 
Wed, 11/05/2008 - 20:52
#13
Thanks so much for honing
Thanks so much for honing this work, Peat!
Thu, 11/06/2008 - 04:15
#14
Oh yeah! You're a treasure,
Oh yeah! You're a treasure, Peat.
Wed, 01/14/2009 - 16:06
#15
Hey, Peat - you're famous.
Hey, Peat - you're famous. 
Check this out on General Hydroponics' site. (I was rummaging top referring pages to here, and you were most of the top of the list. 
)
Thu, 01/15/2009 - 08:13
#16
Hey, that's so good.
Don't
Hey, that's so good. 
Don't worry, I won't let the fame go to my head - you can visit my Beverly Hills home anytime you guys like. 
Thu, 01/15/2009 - 20:47
#17
Way to go, Peat! We always
Way to go, Peat! We always knew you were a treasure, now many more do, too.
Wed, 02/25/2009 - 11:28
#18
Part 5 now...
I started this
Part 5 now...
I started this last night, I thought it would be a good idea to document the whole grow process for various plants I have grown. It will show you EC/pH levels and what to feed at the various weeks.
I'm still developing it at the moment, I have my tomatoes to add yet - and possibly the cucumbers, if they work out. 
Mon, 03/02/2009 - 13:55
#19
Thank you soooo much
Thank you soooo much Peat.
Mon, 03/02/2009 - 14:07
#20
Thank you Orlando Jude, your
Thank you Orlando Jude, your very welcome.
Wed, 03/25/2009 - 20:29
#21
Hi all. This question is for
Hi all. This question is for Peat, or anyone else who uses liquid nutes in their AG according to Peats guidelines. I have throroughly read all the parts of Peat's Guide to Hydroponics in the AeroGarden. Great guides Peat!!! I am ready to make my transition from AG nute tablets to liquid nutes. However I have one question regarding the instructions below...
Every two weeks, without fail, you should dispose of all the water in your AeroGarden, sanitize, and mix
up another batch of nutrients. If this is neglected then all the nutrients will be used up by your plants and
they will begin to suffer.
What is the best method for disposing of water and and sanitizing the AG when your garden is in full swing? I am imagining me having two full, heavy cherry tomato plants in my AG Deluxe, and trying to pour the water out while not damaging the plants or roots. This part sounds tricky. And as for sanitizing, I'm at a loss.
Can someone share their experiences with me? Thanks in advance. Sorry if this is posted somewhere and I missed it.
Josh-
Thu, 03/26/2009 - 10:11
#22
Welcome, Josh!
There are two
Welcome, Josh!
There are two camps here about that. Yes, dumping the bowl causes much distress to fully laden plants. Bruce and I just top off, bringing the nutes to the proper EC each time. I also sometimes syphon out a few cups of liquid (with an air tube syphon) before topping off. I don't fully dump the bowl unless there's a problem I'm trying to solve.
When you do fully dump, you can transfer the top surface with plants to a large pan, and let it sit there while you clean the bowl. Not the full bleach treatment, since you need the top surface unoccupied to fully flush the water lines of a Deluxe. Just - rinse it really well with chlorine-fortified tap water. And maybe add a couple ml of hydrogen peroxide to the new water for added antimicrobial action.
Thu, 03/26/2009 - 11:58
#23
Hello Josh and welcome.
As
Hello Josh and welcome.
As gisette said, there are two camps (on this website) with this - read any decent hydroponic literature though, and it will say to dump all your water. There are good reasons for this: every chemical (salt) has a different ion which contributes to the overall EC, some are very minor. If you use up this particular salt then the EC meter won't pick it up, you are then deficient. Dumping and refilling will replenish every chemical and bring you back up to the optimum level, if you just add nutrient without dumping then you don't know what you are putting in - some chemicals will be too strong, others will be too weak.
This dump/refill had been used for years and is the 'normal' way to do things, don't worry about the plants being stressed - it won't effect your grow at all, I've never encountered this and have not seen anything mentioned in hydroponic books/internet about it. Moving your plants around and taking the bowl out will probably stress them out though.
The second method I have only seen done on this website, bruce & gisette use this. They add nutrient/water as and when and don't dump and refill. It's worked for them OK though so I can't knock it.
It's a personal choice, you either stick to the ski slope or go off piste - my personal choice is to stay on the alloted course and not wander off. I've been doing this for many years now and I've had no problems.
I understand your issues with large plants, it's not practical to keep lifting the bowl off to pour the water away. What I use is a simple hand pump which I bought from an aquarium shop. Place one end in the AG and the other end in your sink, or another container. Squeeze the blue bit and the water will be drawn from the AG very quickly, once it's flowing you no longer have to squeeze the blue plastic. You don't have to remove anything then from the AG, just lift the front flap to put the pipe in.
Sanitising: I personally don't do this when the AG is full of plants, I just dump/refill and leave the plants alone. Every now and then, I add some 17.5% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to my nutrients before I refill the AG. This will kill a myriad of pathogens/diseased roots etc and is a friendly way to sanitise. I don't use it all the time as it can also kill 'friendly' bacteria.
I hope this has helped you.
Picture of my hand pump
Thu, 03/26/2009 - 14:46
#24
Thanks for the quick
Thanks for the quick responses Gisette and Peat! I understand now, thank you. The syphon method makes sense to me, I just couldn't wrap my head around having to detach the bowl and lid every two weeks.
Toward the end of my last grow, the root mass was so significant and interwoven that I'm not sure I could have detached the lid without ripping everything apart (the roots grew around the plastic bowl supports, which cpme to think of it, probably aren't even necessary). Last time I did all basil (4 specialty varieties taken from cuttings) and it was fairly easy to move the bowl around. But this grow is going to be one chocolate cherry tomato plant, and one glacier tomato plant, so I'm imagining once they're large and trellised, it's going to get very awkward to move the bowl around.
As for the 17.5% H2O2, do you order online or pick it up somewhere locally? If just using it occasionally, what's the ratio for mixing? And will it affect the pH?
Thanks again, this site has taught me a great deal...I feel empowered. My AG is about to start a new life!
Thu, 03/26/2009 - 16:09
#25
Caveat - I did say I tip out
Caveat - I did say I tip out a few cups of liquid now and then. A partial flush and refill. And yes, when the plants are big, it's hugely stressful to move the bowl. On the owner as well as the plants.
Thu, 03/26/2009 - 17:10
#26
This site?
This site? http://www.dfwx.com/goewebsite.htm?gclid=CIDy3vvawZkCFRJxxwodOBlquw
Caveat, I never bought from them yet. Just looking around.
Fri, 03/27/2009 - 09:37
#27
The 35% is the best peroxide
The 35% is the best peroxide you can get, it's hard to find though. I had to settle for 17.5% which I ordered on line from a hydroponics site. Gisette uses 3% which she, I think, got from a pharmacy/chemist(?) and has used successfully. The higher the percentage, the better quality.
Dosage: hopefully it's marked on the bottle. Usually, it's 2-3mL per gallon, but you will need to check, to my knowledge it does not alter the pH of the solution. I use it probably every other complete feed for my cucumbers and not at all with the lettuce.
No particular reason for this other than I'm finding the cukes temperamental, plus, I don't want to lose them! The lettuce grows and grows and does not seem worth wasting my peroxide.
I probably use it more for cleaning after the grow has finished, a strong dose in water will disinfect everything.
Please be careful with the stronger stuff, it will blister your skin if you get it on you - just wash under running water and there will be no permanent damage. I've spilt it countless times and the 'ole fingers are still intact.
Sat, 03/28/2009 - 19:20
#28
Thanks for the link, SC. My
Thanks for the link, SC. My pharmacist acted like I was a terrorist when I asked about 35% H2O2, even the hydro stores here don't carry it. I'll stick with my 99¢ a pint 3% solution when I need it.
Peat is absolutely right and in agreement with everything you read about hydroponics. I'm an outlaw but I do follow most of his advice with great success. The only thing I know is that a nute change, even using a siphon, stressed my plants. I started gradually topping off with the next nute level to slowly bring the EC up and was amazed at the difference. Note that I check the EC and PH almost daily and add 6.0 water or nute mix as needed. Sometimes I add a ml or so of a particular Flora formula or a few drops of PH up/down as needed.
My Super Chile peppers in an AG deluxe haven't had a water change since mid November and they are amazing, especially since I added an airstone (thanks, Peat) when the pump quit. It just finished a crop last week and they are already loaded with flowers and peppers that will be ready to harvest in another week or so. I'll be adding some new pics to my "peppers, we have peppers" thread shortly, even I'm amazed. I've got lettuce taking over another AG deluxe that I haven't changed since I started with 0.9 EC mix in January and slowly bumped up to 1.7 and down to 1.2 then back to 1.7 over two plantings. They are/were huge.
So I guess what I'm saying is that for my way to work you have to know (I feel it, is that weird?) what your plants need and tend to them almost daily, knowing exactly what the EC and PH is and compensate as needed
Edited, a couple of sentences got dropped....??
Sat, 04/04/2009 - 17:51
#29
Well, I finally found the
Well, I finally found the limit of using the same nutes - 4 months to be safe. At 4 months + 10 days my EC started going throuigh the roof no matter what I did so I drained about 2/3 of the water and replaced it. No damage to my Super Chiles though, they're doing great and starting to ripen the third crop.
Sat, 04/04/2009 - 18:11
#30
Wow, Bruce.
Oh, I was
Wow, Bruce.
Oh, I was meaning to ask you - about when (weeks) do you start shifting peppers over from grow to bloom nutes? And do you run the nutes as high as 2.5 EC for both stages? My latest are still down around 1.5 - only about 2 weeks old.
Sat, 04/04/2009 - 18:28
#31
Gisette, I started them from
Gisette, I started them from cuttings and left them in ~1.8 grow mix until they were well established and started to bud, maybe 5-7 weeks (?) then started topping off with bloom mix and found they needed at least 2.5 EC, 2.7 is even better. 'Course we're talking different peppers, though. Check out my "peppers, we have peppers" thread, I think I documented most of what I did.
Sat, 04/04/2009 - 19:18
#32
Thanks, Bruce.
Thanks, Bruce.
Sat, 06/06/2009 - 17:16
#33
I have a three part mix
I have a three part mix (ultramicro,ultragrow,and ultrabloom) was wanting to compare with the flora counter parts. The micro is 5-0-1, grow is 2-1-6, and bloom is 0-5-4. Seed mix is 1.5 ml of each, veg growth is 10ml 15ml 5ml for 1gal of water. So as u can see the mix per gal is similar I was wondering are they the same.
Sun, 06/07/2009 - 03:37
#34
The General Hydroponics ones
The General Hydroponics ones are: micro 5-0-1, grow 3-1-7 and bloom 0-5-4
They are quite similar ratio wise apart from the grow, the major difference is going to be the quality of the nutrients, GH have been at this for many years and are top class. The product you have (is this it?), will probably do a decent job of growing your plants, and will be better than the AG tablets because it's 3-part - but, if there was a side-by-side growing race then the GH would win.
Sun, 06/07/2009 - 08:16
#35
thanks Peat I thought maybee
thanks Peat I thought maybee some one was just repacking the gh in diferent bottles. This is my first time not using the tablets.(my plants are growing like crazy) When I run out of the 3 part mix I will go get the gh. and yes that is exactly what i have
Sun, 06/07/2009 - 13:13
#36
Pretty cool that they're
Pretty cool that they're marketing 3-part nutes explicitly to AG owners now. 
Maybe General Hydroponics should put up a slightly more assertive page on the topic.
Sun, 06/07/2009 - 13:39
#37
Sun, 06/07/2009 - 13:47
#38
I haven't had an apron in so
I haven't had an apron in so many years! I should, though, especially for washing things with bleach at the sink, it'd be a good idea...
Thu, 11/05/2009 - 04:44
#39
I like the foundation of this
I like the foundation of this blog has a great variety of comments I really like it, several points of view helps in the appreciation of the subject,is very interesting and I would like learn more.
zadoc
forex trading system
Sun, 03/07/2010 - 13:34
#40
FABULOUS RESOURCE, PEAT!
I
FABULOUS RESOURCE, PEAT!
I do have one request, though. I use this meter http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Pocket-TDS-4-Quality/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
It gives straight ppm, so I don't understand your TDS X readings. Is there a way to convert EC to straight ppm?
THANK YOU!
Sun, 03/07/2010 - 14:09
#41
By the look of things your
By the look of things your meter uses a 342 ppm NaCl calibration solution, I'm fairly sure that you are using the x700 conversion (as opposed to the x500).
Have a look at my guide, Part 2 Page 6 - this will give you a good idea of the EC range. For a highly accurate reading, divide you PPM by 700 to obtain the EC.
I'd need to check on this further though, if your are using the x500 then divide the PPM by 500 to get the EC.
To convert from EC to PPM, either multiply by 700 or 500.
PPM is a pain as there are too many standards, EC is simple, one reading which is universal and understood by all.
Sun, 03/07/2010 - 16:58
#42
Interesting, Peat.
If you do
Interesting, Peat.
If you do learn more about the 500 or 700 conversions, that would be cool.
Thanks!
TeaLover
Sun, 03/07/2010 - 17:48
#43
You're right, Peat. It is
You're right, Peat. It is x700. Now I can better use your great resource!
Thanks again.
Mon, 03/08/2010 - 10:43
#44
Hi TeaLover,
Peat is right
Hi TeaLover,
Peat is right about wanting to double-check your meter - I'm quite certain that the HM meters are on the x500 scale.
The meter at the manufacturer's site: www.tdsmeter.com/products/tds4.html
The manufacturer's calibration information: www.tdsmeter.com/products/calibrationsolution.html
If I look at "Solution Conversions" on the second link and divide 342 by 500 as Peat suggests, it comes out to EC 0.684 mS or 684 µS, so close to the 700 µS on the manufacturer's site. If you divide by 700 it doesn't even come close.
You should wait for Peat's confirmation though. If I'm wrong then I get to learn something as well.
Mon, 03/08/2010 - 14:40
#45
If I'd taken the time to find
If I'd taken the time to find the manual (thanks bab43), then the meter does indeed look to read the x500 scale, in fact, Hanna in the USA uses the x500 scale so this seems to be correct.
Confusion abounds; you see the problem now. Different countries and different manufacturers use different PPM's, you will also find the x640 scale! When someone talks about PPM in forums, you have no idea what scale they are using (x500, x640 or x700), this makes things difficult.
Consider this: the same solution can read different PPM values with different PPM meters! The EC will always be the same though across all meters.
That's why I have always said to use EC, simple, EC is EC.
Mon, 03/08/2010 - 17:25
#46
I use EC myself as well.
I use EC myself as well. Just by coincidence I came across this meter recently and remembered it is x500. It's unfortunate that 'affordable' meters for new growers normally only give ppm values. 
Yay.
Thanks for posting this, Peat!